3 July 2016
We moved sites, deeper into the forest, today. It was
about an hour-long trek ascending 2 peaks & descending into their
corresponding canyons. It says something about the restoration of this cloud
forest, now in its 15th year of secondary forest growth (after being
converted back from a cattle ranch, with some barbed wire still visible) that
even as we passed over these peaks, you could see open sky and sunlight above
you, but could not see through the trees (the vegetation has come back nicely
on its own) to the horizon or to the river below, though you could hear it,
which was nice. There are no vastly large trees yet (not enough time for their
growth just yet) but the forest has rebounded back to a decent extent. And while
the larger cloud forest animals have yet to really move in & repopulate the
area (tapirs, spectacled bears, pumas, ocelots & sloths – though I’m told
there are a few here somewhere, not that we’ll have the luck/opportunity to see
any of them), the vast diversity of vegetation growth & the myriad of
insects & birds is a good sign (though I could do without the diversity of
parasitic invertebrates).
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Sunrise over Valle del Cauca |
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View from cliff-top station |
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Station on the cliff |
However, as we were descending into the second canyons to
set up camp, we had to climb over a rather large, smooth, slick boulder. And if
you can’t guess where I’m going with this, I fell off the cliff. Not sure how
it happened but being smooth & wet, I was having a hard time finding my
footing over the boulder (not that anyone else had problems, as I was the last
one to cross & everyone else had made it over just fine) & lost (or
never really had) my footing. I was lucky that Mario was on top of the boulder
having just received the supplies I handed up to him & quickly grabbed my
arm while I was frantically trying to find a hand hold on the rock. So Mario
saved me. I’m not sure how far I would have fallen, as you couldn’t really see
what was off the edge of the cliff other than more trees. I can only hope some
vegetation would have broken my fall or that the canyon wasn’t that deep in
that spot… But as it is, I was able to grab Mario’s hands in the melee & we
slowly swung my lower half off to the side, where I was able to find a foothold
on a tree limb & scramble back up onto the trail on the other side of the
boulder. Of course the first thought that went through my mind was “well,
shit”, quickly followed by “how is Mario going to be able to hold my weight,
he’s half my size!” I really was concerned about pulling him over the edge with
me but thankfully didn’t & all is well.
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White-sided flowerpiercer |
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White-sided flowerpierce |
Or almost. Other than nearly giving Mario a heart attack,
I somehow twisted & slammed my left leg against the rock & seriously
bruised it. I’m not sure what a bone bruise feels like but it was pretty hard
to move my leg after that. But there’s
bugger all I could do about it since we still had a ways to go to make it down to
the camp, get everything set up for the next day & then climb back up over
the 2 peaks (crossing the infamous boulder once again, albeit WAY more
carefully) for the hour-long trek back to the station. Thank goodness I didn’t
break anything because I would have been shit out of luck that far away &
with only a first aid kit to hand. But it was a pretty brutal trek back to the
station that night. Being muddy just made things worse as each time I would
slip, my knee would get twisted in a different direction, immediately followed
by a searing pain & English cuss words (oddly enough, the most English I’ve
spoken here so far). But I hobbled & made it back to the station – not much
else I could do – & proceeded to assess the damage. I can’t tell if I’ve
torn anything on the inside, it definitely feels painful to the touch but that
may just be a serious bruise. The knee is very stiff & hard to move in any
direction but that may just be from the swelling. Sadly, ice is a luxury we
don’t have here without electricity (though, I learned that if I leave my hand
outside my sleeping bag long enough, I can use it as a temporary ice pack) but
I did have some ibuprofen. So I took that & made my way into the shower,
which turned out not to be the smartest idea. With my rickety knee shivering from
the freezing cold water, I (perhaps expectedly) slipped in the shower &
totally ate it – it was a full on body slam, slip & slide onto the soapy
tile floor. Thank goodness I didn’t hit my head but I didn’t help my bruised
knee any. Peeved at myself & beyond embarrassed, I quickly replied to my
roommate’s inquiry through the door as to my safety by saying I was fine, I had
just dropped the shampoo.
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Photographing y-headed manakin's beak |
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Taking blood sample from yellow-headed manakin |
And that was my fucking day.
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Yellow-headed manakin |
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